26. January 2022 at 1pm

Fashion is not absolute

VALENTINO SPRING/SUMMER 2022 HAUTE COUTURE

Valentino Anatomy of Couture Show

#AnatomyOfCouture #ValentinoHauteCouture 

VALENTINO SPRING/SUMMER 2022 HAUTE COUTURE

Models on the stairs at the estate at 8 Place Vendôme

©Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli's haute couture shows for Valentino are among the most anticipated events in the fashion calendar. They also become an inspiration for artists and poets. In the Valentino Anatomy of Couture show, streamed live from Place Vendôme 8 on January 26th, with only a few hand-picked guests in attendance, Pierpaolo Piccioli gets to the bottom of the anatomy of haute couture.

Pierpaolo Piccioli is a visionary and revolutionary who seeks connections with artists and poets and works in his creative laboratory not only on fashion but on art exhibitions and art books. The idea for this collection is analytical, philosophical and poetic and can be best expressed in his own words:

"The body, that of women in particular, is both a matter of fact and a cultural construct, of which beauty canons change over time, imposing now tense verticality, now soft horizontality, celebrating certain parts of the anatomy over others. In the system of Haute Couture this drive to idealization materializes in the body of the house model, on which everything is designed and built, becoming real while remaining an abstraction."

Pierpaolo Piccioli

Kristen McMenamy

©Valentino

Pierpaolo Piccioli researches with the cuts at the highest level of craftsmanship. His creations emphasize simplicity and elegance in patterns and shapes. Dresses with haute couture embroidery, tulle and sequins, are met by minimalist black dresses and cerations in fuchsia pink, lilac, coral, green and cornflower blue - colors which are associated with Piccioli. To a soundtrack by musician Anohni, the models ascended a spiral staircase in taffeta gowns, structured bodices with architectural skirts, coats and dramatic capes.

The show was opened by Kristen McMenamy, the 57-year-old supermodel, who also closed it with air kisses. She showed a black cocktail dress with stockings, just below the hem and leather racing gloves.

Kristen McMenamy opens the show  - Valentino Anatomy of Couture Show

©Valentino

Details - Valentino Anatomy of Couture Show

©Valentino

Silver sparkle was brought to the runway by Marie Sophie Wilson. Other representatives of her model generation were Lynne Koester, one of Pierpaolo Piccioli's favorite models from the 80s, and Hannelore Knuts.

On the style of the dresses in Pierpaolo Piccioli's own words.

"The body is the starting and ending point of the whole process. Silhouettes follow it closely, or detach from it. Nudity glimmers from extremely short hems, peeping from deep necklines that reveal the torso. A strong sense of verticality alternates with breezy horizontality. "

The homage to the female body in all its forms was celebrated in the press and by social media users.

Marie Sophie Wilson

©Valentino

Lynne Koester

©Valentino

Chloe M

©Valentino

Greta Hofer

©Valentino

Details

©Valentino

With his Anatomy Of Couture show, bodies are presented in a way that has never been seen before in Haute Couture. The core idea of "The Anatomy of Couture" is based on the principle of Haute Couture to adapt the clothes to the body of the customer. However, the implementation has always been on very young very slim bodies, so Pierpaolo Piccioli has taken a visionary step.

Culture is long ahead of fashion and the catwalk was dominated by super-slim beauties. It is hoped that other couturiers will follow Pierpaolo Piccioli's example. Otherwise unattainable, Haute Couture can be a conduit to further spread the symbolism of diversity.

In his collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli has kept the codes of the house of Valentino, but has shifted the values.

Enjoy the show!

Fashion is not absolute

VALENTINO SPRING/SUMMER 2022 HAUTE COUTURE

Applause after the show at Place Vendôme 8

©Valentino

Jordan Leftwich

©Valentino

Alejandro Diaz

©Valentino

Details

©Valentino

Dara Gueye

©Valentino

Antoinette Walford

©Valentino

Kristy Ponomar

©Valentino

©Valentino

Akuol Deng Atem

©Valentino

Jill Kortleve

©Valentino

©Valentino

Devyn Garcia

©Valentino

left Anna Ewers, behind Lisa Krabbe

©Valentino

Nyangath Lual

©Valentino

Canlan Wang

©Valentino

©Valentino

Levie Hsieh

©Valentino

Sylwia Kuta

©Valentino

©Valentino

Ajok Made

©Valentino

Details

©Valentino

©Valentino

Lucia Fairfull

©Valentino

Ajok Daing

©Valentino

©Valentino

Rokhaya Fall

©Valentino

Details ©Valentino

Angeer Amol

©Valentino

Maya Sieron

©Valentino

The final

©Valentino

Place Vendôme 8

©Valentino

Behind the scenes - Kristen McMenamy, Marie Sophie Wilson and the designer Pierpaolo Piccioli

©Valentino

©Valentino

Place Vendôme 8

©Valentino

By Francesca Morelli, 6. February 2022